Rice goes with everything and Garden Variety Wednesday #7 link up

Welcome to
Garden Variety Wednesday # 7. 
Link up your recipes & ideas using fresh produce below.

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Leave it to Southerners to take perfectly healthy vegetables and add bacon.  Or cheese.  Or both.

Leave it to a Cajun to add rice.

The story goes...
Mama says, "I cooked da rice.  Now what yall want to eat?"

It's true that we eat rice with pretty much anything and everything. 

Another story goes...
A real Cajun can look at a rice field and tell you how much gravy it would take to cover that rice.

Speaking of real Cajuns, today's recipe comes from Donald Link, author of one of my favorite cookbooks--not coincidentally titled Real Cajun.

I reviewed this book a while back, but I'm still trying recipes from it and finding lots of treasures.

Link's Zucchini & Rice Gratin is one of my favorites from Real Cajun.  It's deliciously bacony (Don't care what spellchecker says...bacony IS a word.) & hearty--I could make a meal out of it alone. And I have. It's also a really great opportunity to use all that rice we have around here.

Despite problems with squirrels & powdery mildew, I had a pretty good squash & zucchini crop this year.  This Zucchini & Rice Gratin was one of the things I looked most forward to making with them. 

So I'll admit, this has more details/ingredients than I'd usually invest in a side dish unless cooking for a potluck or family gathering.  Often, I make this the main dish with a side salad.

Today, I used both zucchini and yellow squash.  I also used Ritz crackers instead of breadcrumbs.

Anything that starts with rendering bacon then sneaks in a simmer in a heavy cream hot tub has to be good. 
Don't cha think?

Throw in some leftover rice,
and Cajuns'll be heading your way.
Don't say I didn't warn you.
I like how the rice is studded with little jewels of bacon, squash, and zucchini.

We all know that most casseroles don't win beauty contests.

But I think this one wins for taste.

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Zucchini & Rice Gratin

Adapted from Real Cajun by Donald Link

3-4 strips bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ tsp dried oregano
¾-1 tsp salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
3 or 4 medium zucchini, cut into chunks (about 2 1/2 cups)
1 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup heavy cream
3 cups cooked rice
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup unseasoned dry breadcrumbs (I used crushed Ritz crackers)
3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons olive oil

Heat the oven to 350 degrees F.
In a large, deep skillet over medium-high, cook the bacon until almost crisp. Add the onion, garlic, and seasonings and cook until the onion is tender. Add the zucchini and cook for another 7-8 minutes.
Add the chicken broth and cream, and simmer for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat if the mixture bubbles too rapidly. Remove the skillet from heat and set aside to cool for about 15 minutes.
In a small bowl mix the breadcrumbs (or cracker crumbs) with the cheese and olive oil. Set aside.
When the zucchini mixture has cooled, add the rice and beaten eggs. Pour into a greased 13 x 9 pan. Top with the breadcrumb/cracker crumb mixture. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until the top is golden.

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GARDEN VARIETY WEDNESDAY # 7

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~ Made a dish with something you nurtured in your garden?
~ Maybe a neighbor stopped by and shared some of his/her harvest?
~ Have baskets of goodies from a pick-your-own farm?
~ Found some treasures at your local farmer's market?

* Please don't forget to link back to Ms. enPlace or grab a Garden Variety Wednesday button and add it to your post.
* Link your post--not your home page.
* Please, one link per person.
* Since growing seasons differ so much even across the US, old/archived posts are welcome, but please edit with a link back or a button.
* Have fun visiting other blogs!


Garden Variety Wednesday schedule:

June 22

July 13 & July 27       

August 10 & August 24

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I'm linking up with the following...head on over!

Food on Friday: Rice & Grains @ Carole's Chatter

Make a Food-"e"-Friend Monday #16 @ The Saturday Evening Pot

Tuesdays at the Table @ All The Small Stuff

Hearth and Soul vol 51 @ A Moderate Life

Delectable Tuesday @ Home Sweet Farm

Made it on Monday #13 @ Lark's Country Heart

Turning the Table Thursday @ Around My Family Table (new)

What's Cooking Thursday @ Feeding Four

Potluck Friday @ EKat's Kitchen

Foodie Friday @ Little Brick Ranch

Fresh Food Friday @ la bella vita

Friday Food @ Mom Trends

Cookbook Sundays @ Mom's Sunday Cafe

No Scurvy Dogs Here

When we were looking at the house we now live in, I was excited to see a fig tree and two citrus trees in the yard.  When we moved in and I inspected the trees more closely, I was disappointed to see that none of them had been well cared for.  Sad that they were so neglected and disrespected.  Pretty sure that none of them would produce much of anything.

The fig tree still has a ways to go.  We harvested some last summer, but not much.  I pruned the tree and am hoping that will help.

The citrus trees (a tangerine and a satsuma) are another story.  Last spring when we moved in, I noticed them blooming.  Is there nothing better than the smell of citrus blossoms?  Still, I thought, these trees are in such bad shape.  Then this happened.

And my dad, who has coached me along with my trees (he has 3 of his own), told me "you won't realize just how much fruit you have until they ripen."

I thought, "OK, crazy man.  Whatever you say.  I can see the fruit, you know."

But then orange started popping against the green leaves and I quickly realized what he meant.  The green fruit blends in so well.  But when they ripen...

Well, I knew I had a huge "problem" on my hands.  What was I going to do with all of this fruit?

One thing was for sure.  No scurvy dogs here. 


I bagged up pounds and pounds to give to friends.  Co-workers.  The Boy's fiddle teacher.  Random people on the street.  I'd rather be thought of as crazy than for food to go to waste.

I searched for something to do with the fruit so we wouldn't get bored.  Satsuma Buttermilk Pie jumped out at me from one of my favorite chefs and cookbooks: Real Cajun by Donald Link.  I was excited!  Eager for the fruit to be ripe enough!  I just knew my problem was solved!

Until I set about making the pie several weeks later and realized that one pie would only use a few satsumas.

Whoooosh.  Oh.  Did you hear that?  That was the wind.  Sucked from my sails.

But the pie was good.  Really good.  I made...um...let's say several.  And I'm not big on fruity dessert.

You'll need:
sugar, flour, eggs, butter, buttermilk, vanilla, satsuma zest and juice, graham cracker pie crust

Very easy.  Whisk the sugar and flour, add eggs one at a time.  Whisk in everything else.  Pour into a prebaked pie shell and bake.

Satsumas...Those four little puppies up there are satsumas.  Sweet, juicy satsumas.  The belle of the ball when it comes to citrus in South Louisiana.  Easy to peel because of their loose skin.  Seedless or almost nearly so.  And they come apart in neat, perfect segments.  They are Japanese in origin and related to mandarin oranges.  Jesuits brought satsumas from Japan to Louisiana in the 18th century, planting groves in Plaquemines Parish, south of New Orleans.  Hundreds of acres are still grown in Plaquemines Parish.  And many backyards around Louisiana (and Texas through Florida) have a tree or two.

I opted to also make Link's homemade graham cracker crust.  It's not difficult and has good flavor.  But my oven is...well...mischievous.  (Yeah, sure.  Blame the oven.)  No matter what I set it to, part way into cooking it decides 450 is really the way to go.  I had some problems with over baked crust, but not because of the recipe.

I like this best served cold from the icebox.

Printer Friendly Recipe

Satsuma Buttermilk Pie
from Real Cajun by Donald Link

1/2 cup plus 1 Tbsp sugar
3 Tbsp AP flour
4 large eggs
4 Tbsp butter, melted
1 cup buttermilk, well shaken
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tsp finely grated satsuma zest (or orange or tangerine)
3 Tbsp satsuma juice (or orange or tangerine)
1 10" graham cracker pie crust, prebaked

Preheat oven to 300.  Whisk together the sugar and flour, then add the eggs one at a time, until well combined.  Slowly whisk in the melted butter.  Whisk in the buttermilk, vanilla, and zest and juice, and pour into the pie shell.  bake for 30 minutes, or until the mixture is just set.  Serve this pie at room temperature, or chilled, with whipped cream and fresh berries, if desired.

Graham Cracker Pie Crust

from Real Cajun by Donald Link

1/2 cup butter
2 Tbsp light brown sugar
4 Tbsp granulated sugar
2 Tbsp honey
3/4 cup AP flour
1/4 cup whole wheat flour
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon

In a large mixing bowl or the bowl of an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugars.  Add the honey, flours, salt, and cinnamon, and stir until just combined.  Refrigerate the dough for at least 2 hours or up to 1 day in advance.

Preheat the oven to 325.  Use your hands to press the dough into a 9 or 10" pie pan.  Bake about 30 minutes, or until lightly browned.  Cool completely before filling.

linking up this week with:

Food on Fridays: Pies & Tarts @ Carole's Chatter

 

All the Small Stuff

The first Sunday of every month

At Drick's Rambling Cafe

Review: Donald Link's Real Cajun

I've been pushing this review back since Feb because... 
* I didn't feel like gathering my thoughts (bad/lame reason)
* I found more seasonal things that I just had to talk about (borderline bad reason)
* I lost my entire file of food porn pictures and had to start from scratch while I was starting a second job and moving to a new house (very, very good reason)

My apologies to Donald Link for the delay because I have bonded with his book Real Cajun: Rustic Home Cooking From Donald Link's Louisiana ($23 + change on amazon).  That's melodramatic and perhaps a bit weird.  But I tell ya after reading this book, I feel like Donald Link may be my long lost brother...or something less creepy and stalkeresque.  Again, my apologies to Donald Link.

The food pictures by Chris Granger (not Granger like ranger; it's Gron-jhay) grabbed me.  This is the food I grew up eating. 

The pictures of families interacting in the kitchen together and eating together grabbed me.  This is how I grew up. 
At every family gathering standard greetings were/are hugs and kisses.  This is also true among close friends.

The pictures of South Louisiana scenery grabbed me.  This is where I grew up. 
Although these pictures do make me wonder what's to become of our marshes, coastline, and beloved Gulf seafood due to the Deep Horizon "Spill."  Yeah--I went there.  Tried to avoid that subject, but it seems to always be on my mind lately.

I only wish that Donald Link would have written this book when I lived away from Louisiana.  It would have filled such a void.

When I read the first few sentences in the introduction, I felt as if I could've (almost) written them about myself:

"I grew up on the back roads and bayous of southwest Louisiana, a place I did not fully appreciate until later in life.  Looking back, I realize that the things I took for granted, like making gumbo with my granny, fishing with my grandad Adams, and family feasts made with produce from the garden, seafood from local waters, and wild game from the woods, were special gifts....  As a child every occasion of my life revolved around food--holidays, festivals, funerals, or any other excuse to call the family together."

This book is much more than a cookbook.  It is filled with personal touches.  Link's thoughts about leaving LA and coming back (like I did) are poignant.  Stories of Link's childhood, cooking and fishing with his Grandad Adams, stories of the uneasy, unpredictable time New Orleaneans refer to as "Post-K" or "After-The-Storm," stories of LA agri- and aquiculture, and stories of family get togethers--both in celebration and mourning accompany each recipe.  The stories, of course, center on the role food plays in our lives.

I find myself grabbing for this book and reading these mini essays over and over, nodding in recognition.

But this is marketed as a cookbook.  So I should be reviewing it as such, no?

Real Cajun consists of 6 chapters:

La Vie Cochon: which means a pig's life.  One of Donald Link's restaurants is named Cochon.  You can't grow up in S LA and ignore the pig.  This chapter provides recipes for homemade bacon, cracklins, and sausages as well as recipes for smothered pork roast, Braised Sausage w/ Chiles (gotta try that!), and more.  I don't see myself making my own bacon or sausage, but you never know!

From Louisiana Waters: obviously this is the seafood chapter, containing recipes for shrimp, crawfish, crab, various types of fish, and oysters.  Classics like Crawfish Etouffee and Shrimp Creole are included.  But Link also includes some "new" seafood recipes.  He gives a nod to New Orleans' large Vietnamese community with Vietnamese Marinated Shrimp.  And the Summer Crab and Tomato Salad looks perfect for hot LA summers.  Personally, I found this section heavy on the crab--but that's quite all right with me!

Family Gatherings: Link explains that the recipes here are ones you'd make for a crowd.  Things like the Seafood Gumbo recipe featured on the cover, from scratch Broccoli, Rice, and Cheddar Casserole, Simple Roasted Chicken w/ Lemon and Basil, and Chicken Sauce Piquante are included.  Many of the recipes in this section would be found on Holiday tables throughout South LA.

All the Fixin's: is all about the sides.  Things like homemade Creamed Sweet Corn, Smothered Collard Greens, Zucchini and Rice Gratin (which I plan to try soon), and Cast Iron Hush Puppies.  Cajuns don't shrug off the sides.

Outdoor Living--Laissez les Bon Temps Roulez!: This chapter features recipes for crawfish boils, fish fries, camp-style cooking, smoking and grilling, and things you might find at outdoor festivals (like Meat Pies--if they taste even a fraction as good as the picture looks...oh boy, I'm in trouble).  The end of the chapter includes cocktail recipes as well...ya know, good times rolling and all.

Louisiana Sweet Tooth: desserts, of course!  Cobblers, fudge, bread pudding, pies...classic southern desserts but many with surprising twists (Satsuma Buttermilk Pie--can't wait for my trees to produce so I can try this).


So what did I try?

Catfish Fried in Bacon Fat: Yes, you read that right.  And, yes, I used all of the precious, precious bacon fat I horde to make this.  And it was good.  I thought it might end up greasy, but no.  Donald Link uses white cornmeal to coat the fish.  I always use yellow corn meal, but I loved the white cornmeal.  It gave a light quality that is needed considering the bacon fat.  Genius!  But that's why he has a book and I don't.  Unfortunately, this is one of the many pictures my computer ate.  See?  Everyone loves catfish fried in bacon fat.

Cast-Iron Hush Puppies: I know, I know.  More fried food.  Hush puppies and fried fish just go together.  In fact, it's a sin to keep them apart.  You can look it up.  Link's hush puppies contain chopped green onion, jalapeno, parsley, and thyme.  He mentions the "greenness" of these hush puppies and gosh darn it, he's right.  This was a different and unexpected flavor--in my opinion mainly because of the thyme, but they were good.  Light and airy and beignet-like.

Scallion Buttermilk Dressing: A mix of buttermilk, mayo, sour cream, several herbs, red wine vinegar, lemon juice, and green onions--this was great!  Lemon and green onion...my food obsessions for going on a year now, so I had no doubt this would work for me.  I loved the tangy quality from the lemon juice and vinegar and also thought all the herbs made the dressing interesting.  Since there's so much going on in this dressing, I opted to use it on a simple mixed lettuce salad.  Link likes to add bacon bits--but he is the pig king.

Flaky Buttermilk Biscuits: This is the only recipe I tried that I won’t make again. The texture was great, but I found the baking powder taste to be overwhelming.


Old-School Chicken & Sausage Jambalaya: Link’s jambalaya is a brown, Cajun style one. His method differs a bit from mine in that I found it to be “chefy.” A lot of steps I wouldn’t normally take such as reducing the chicken stock down to practically nothing. I have to admit that the flavor was great. But I overcooked the rice and thought I ruined the whole pot. Then I remembered Link’s Boudin-Stuffed Turkey Breast. I used the mushy jambalaya as a stuffing for chicken breasts. Then I used the method from my favorite recipe (so far) in this book, Chicken & Bacon Hash, and formed the jambalaya into patties, dusted with flour and pan fried. Real Cajun keeps given’ and given’!

Creamed Sweet Corn: fresh sweet corn kernels simmered in a bath of cream, green onion, and jalapeno, then splashed with lemon juice. Yum. I brought this to a pot luck packed with little old Cajun ladies and it was well-received. Pretty too.

And my top two recipes...


Blueberry Cobbler: I've had many cobblers, but never blueberry.  Link adds lemon juice and zest to the berries, which is a classic combo.  He also adds cinnamon to the dough.  I was iffy about cinnamon w/ blueberries.  But it was fantastic!  The Husband liked it so much, he asked for it again--in place of his birthday cake.

Chicken & Bacon Hash: This could be my favorite recipe of the whole year.  No kidding.  I loved it!  The idea behind this recipe is like any hash--use leftovers.  Link uses leftover grilled chicken which he finely shreds.  The special thing about this hash is that Link came up with a terrific idea to chill the hash, form it into patties, lightly dust with flour, and pan fry.  The result is one I coo over all the time: crispy exterior, soft, creamy interior.  Absolute heaven. 

I heart Donald Link.

Printer friendly version

Chicken & Bacon Hash
from Real Cajun by Donald Link (slightly reworded)

1 medium russet potato, peeled
salt
1 Tbsp olive oil
2 strips thick-sliced bacon, cut into 1/2" cubes
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
1 jalapeno pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped
1 1/2 tsp fresh sage or thyme
1/2 tsp paprika
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
ground black pepper
salt
2 1/2-3 cups finely shredded cooked chicken, preferably leftover from BBQ chicken
2 Tbsp to 1/4 c chicken broth or water
1/2 bunch green onions, thinly sliced
1 Tbsp vegetable oil or rendered bacon fat
flour for dusting

Cut the potato into a small dice and place in a small saucepan. Cover with 2 inches of water and add a generous pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, and simmer until tender, 13-15 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. add the bacon and saute until the fat renders and the bacon is lightly browned but still soft, 3-4 minutes.

Add the onion, celery, garlic, jalapeno, sage, paprika, cayenne, black pepper, and salt. cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, 4-6 minutes.

Add the chicken and broth and cook over medium high, stirring frequently to break up the meat, 6-8 minutes. Add the potato and continue to cook, stirring well to break up the pieces (**this will help bind the mixture**), until the liquid is absorbed. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if needed. Stir in the green onions and allow the mixture to cool (for faster results, spread on a cookie sheet and place in the refrigerator).

Form the hash into 3-4 inch patties. Heat the vegetable oil of bacon fat in a large cast iron skillet over medium-high heat. Sprinkle the patties with flour on both sides, then add them to the pan. Fry until golden brown and crisp on both sides.

**The patties will have the best texture and hold together better if finely shredded chicken is used and if the potatoes are thoroughly broken up during heating.


I recently found a great interview with the man himself.  This site includes a brief bio as well as Donald Link's thoughts on Cajun cooking and his favorite places to eat.


Linking this with Carole's Chatter where there is a great round up of "Your Favorite Cookbooks."