May 27, 2012

Review: John Besh's My Family Table

* This week's See Ya In the Gumbo Potluck can be found here*

This is the part of the story I remind myself of when The Husband really ticks me off.

Just before Christmas, The Husband arranged for me to attend a cooking demo and book signing with Chef John Besh.  He gave me a copy of My Family Table and even managed to get us first in line at the event.  I've posted about this before.



What I haven't mentioned is the underbelly.

The fat, juicy part.

I thoroughly enjoyed the cooking demo.  The book signing followed.  This is where the day spirals out of control.

As my family and I stood at the table where John Besh sat, The Husband told him the following:
"She loves watching your show (Chef John Besh's New Orleans.)  And I love watching her watch your show."

Besh replied with a quizzical look.

"She yells at the TV the entire time you're cooking.  It's great."
(I can't take him anywhere.)

Besh then turned to me and asked, "Why?  Do I do something wrong?"

I was too horribly embarrassed to respond.  What I would like Chef Besh to know is this:
Absolutely no disrespect, but all the fancy chefification of traditional recipes makes me yell.  (Ahem...a certain Redfish Courtbouillon recipe.)  Not because you've done anything wrong.  It's because you haven't done it like Mama...my Mama.

And I think Besh is enough of a good Southern boy to know that it's Mama's way.  Or no way.

Oh, but the shame does not end here.

Even if The Husband had kept his trap closed, I still would have managed to prove that I'm a total nut job.  All by myself.

During his demo, Besh talked about traveling to Acadiana on one of the most sacred days of the year--opening day of duck season.  So, I thanked him for missing opening day and coming to Cajun country instead.  This little exchange occurred as he signed my book.

In my defense, from where I stood, the writing was upside down.  Plus the Italian Wedding Soup we sampled and I promptly sloshed on my pants was starting to leave a stain.  (I can't be taken anywhere.)


After he signed, I nodded my head, gave a thumbs up, and said, "all right!"  I noticed a furrowed brow.  But this is also about the same time that someone was blabbing about my TV yelling habit.

When we got in the car, I asked the Husband if he had read what John Besh wrote.  He said he had.
"Cool, huh?"
"Yeah.  Cool.   Wait.  What?  What do you think he wrote?"

"Many cold beers at your family table."

How this really reads
To Michelle: May God Bless Your Family Table

In my defense, we had been talking about duck hunting.  And beer goes with that, right?
(I really, really can't be taken anywhere.)


And now that you know all that...

My Family Table: A Passionate Plea for Home Cooking is not loaded with many beers.  It is loaded with recipes, tips, and tricks designed to bring families together for a real meal at a real dinner table.  Eleven chapters of goodness for families to share.

The idea behind My Family Table is to get families eating together...eating real food together.  Several of the recipes utilized leftovers.  Many are handy and adaptable.  And many are simple/straightforward, making it easier and more inviting for busy families to spend some time in the kitchen.

The book begins with Besh asking families to give up the "mass-produced this and that" and cook "real food."

Chapter 1: Kitchen Focus -- Contains recipes such as Risotto Almost Anything, Curried Anything, and Warm Any Fruit Crumble.  Use what you have style.  I like that.  Chapter 1 also contains a section titled, "The Essential Pantry."  While thrilled that Besh includes my favorite--Creole Mustard--in his list of essentials, in general this type of list isn't for me.  My feeling is this: you know what you and your family like.  You also probably have a pretty good idea of what you need to whip up a fast meal to satisfy your family.  Other people's lists of must-have pantry items don't do a lot for me.

Chapter 2: Sunday Supper -- Roasted meats and family-style sides are featured here.

Besh's side dishes are beautiful, often showcasing food right out of his garden.  Dishes like String Beans with Garlic look (and taste) wonderful on a plate.


They are uncomplicated; you don't have to spend a lot of effort fussing over them.  Making family dinners more approachable.
Rosemary & Garlic Roast Potatoes.

Olive-Oil Roasted Cauliflower can be made for Sunday Supper.  The leftovers can be used for the Cauliflower Mac & Cheese found in Chapter 4: School Nights.



Chapter 3: Dinner From a Cast Iron Pot -- Some of the dishes in My Family Table, like Ginger Poached Trout with Citrus Vinaigrette, surprised me since I'm used to Besh doing the New Orleans/Southern thing.  I would be pretty disappointed in him if he didn't give a shout out to his roots.  This chapter is one of the places where he does that.  Jambalaya, Chicken Fricassee, Stewed Duck, Slow-cooked Venison, and Stuffed Bell Peppers cooked in cast iron pots are things I grew up eating.

Chapter 4: School Nights -- Includes a funny and eye-opening story about Besh commenting (negatively) on what his wife fed the children on busy school nights.  (In what universe is this ever a good idea?)  School Nights is based on solving the problem of getting nutritious "real food" on the table while dealing with the after-school crazy-craze.  Besh's solutions are like the Cauliflower Mac & Cheese above.  Cook when you have the time and cook a lot of it. Morph it during the week.

Asian Chicken Salad is one of the Besh Family weeknight favorites.  We liked it too.

Chapter 5: Breakfast with My Boys -- Starts with a simple sentence, "I smell breakfast in my mind."  This is as far through the book as I'll take you.  Because this is where I stopped.  To smell the proverbial roses.

As Garfield would say, I don't do mornings.  So it's beyond me why I gravitated towards the Breakfast With My Boys chapter.  But dishes like Lou's Special are forces that pulled me in.

Dark side kinda forces.

Of all the recipes I've tried from My Family Table this has been my favorite.
It is humble.  It is simple.  It is bacon.  Stale bread.  Eggs.  A deconstructed breakfast sandwich that allows the bread to be thoroughly coated with bacon flavor.

The southern staple, Angel Biscuits, did not disappoint.  I loved the folds of dough.  They were mighty fine with homemade fig preserves.

I used to spend a lot of summers with my grandparents.  Just about every morning grandpa would make drop biscuits and coffee.  That was a great scent to wake up to.  Of course, I had to try Besh's drop biscuits with their crispy little points on top.  The difference: these weren't Bisquick.

Brown butter and I are BFFs.  Did you know?

Besh's Brown Butter and Vanilla Waffles (converted into pancakes) and topped with pecans and maple syrup were yet another breakfast winner.  While I hoped the brown butter would have been more pronounced, The Boy thought these were fantastic and wanted them again the following day.
I know.  Sucky picture.  Told you I don't do mornings.
(Although I think this was supper one night.)

The remaining chapters include
Chapter 6: How to Cook a Fish.  Ginger Poached Trout w/ Citrus Vinaigrette and Potato Chip Crusted Drum w/ Sambal Mayo are stand-outs for me.

Chapter 7: Fried Chicken & Other Classics.  Fried Eggplant Salad is on my list as soon as I start picking eggplant.

Chapter 8: BBQ Wisdom.  Grilled Avocado & Tomato Salad, anyone?

Chapter 9: Jazz Brunch.  Roasted Pear Salad, Blue Crab & Sausage Stew, Crab Stuffed Avocados, Sugar Snap Pea Salad w/ Pecans...great chapter.

Chapter 10: Goose for the Holidays is full of fall and winter foods like Creamy Lentil Soup and Mulled Cider

Chapter 11: Drew Makes a Cake (and Other Desserts) is a nice mix of classics like Creme Brûlée, Southern favs like cobbler and Lemon Ice Box Pie, and sophistication like Bananas Flambé and Black Forest Cupcakes.

My Family Table is a large book, packed with a hefty mix of recipes.  There is sure to be something for everyone.  Many somethings.  The photographs and stories only cement the fact that Besh is a genuine down-to-Earth guy.  Even if he does throw everything that swims in his redfish courtbouillon.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Besh's Our Italian Wedding Soup has a few Southern surprises.  Like greens and black-eyed peas.

At the cooking demo, Besh added raw rice to his meatball mixture, channeling our beloved boudin.  Since I had some cooked rice sitting in the fridge, I decided to serve the soup over some of the rice.

The Ultimate Soup Recipe List ~ Linky Party

Linking this with Carole's Chatter where there is a great round up of "Your Favorite Cookbooks."



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Our Italian Wedding Soup

slightly adapted from My Family Table by John Besh

1 pound ground pork
salt, pepper, and garlic powder
1 spoonful of bacon drippings
1/2 onion, chopped
1/2 green bell pepper, chopped
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 tsp red pepper flakes
2 quarts chicken broth
1 cup chopped tomatoes
1 big handful mustard or turnip greens (I used spinach)
1 tsp dried oregano
3 cups cooked black-eyed peas
salt and pepper to taste
cooked rice for serving

Season the ground pork with salt, pepper, and garlic powder.  Wet hands and roll into meat balls.  Heat bacon drippings in a large pot over medium heat.  Sear meatballs quickly in bacon fat so they are well-browned.  Add onions, bell pepper, garlic, and red pepper flakes.  Cook until vegetables are softened and meatballs are done.

Add chicken broth, tomatoes, greens, and oregano and bring to a boil.  Add the black-eyed peas and cook until the soup is hot.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.  Place a spoon of rice in each of six bowls.  Divide the meatballs among the bowls, then ladle in the soup.  Serve with cornbread.

See Ya In the Gumbo # 33 (potluck)



See ya in the gumbo!

My great grandpa said this instead of "good-bye."  It means see ya out there in the mix.

Gumbo is a mix of various ingredients.  And no two people make it the same way.

To "make a gumbo" means much more than cooking.  When someone says "I'm making a gumbo," it means family and friends are invited.

I invite you to join this POTLUCK PARTY every Sunday night.

Bring whatever mix of ingredients you'd like.


Thank you for linking!


All featured entries will be Pinned here.

Last week's top-viewed links:

The Ultimate Burrito
from Once a Mom...Always a Cook

Hugely popular last week. I wanted one the minute I saw it. 
The Ultimate Burrito


Refrigerator Overnight Oatmeal (no cook)
from Gluten Free A-Z Blog

No pot to clean, breakfast is ready when you wake up, and good for you too.
 





Ms. enPlace



* Please link your post, not your homepage.

* In your post, please link back to my site or add a button.

* Try to visit 2 or more participants

* Food-related posts only, please.




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May 21, 2012

Better and Better

What's better than garlic?

Slow cooked garlic.

Better than that?

Slow cooked garlic with lime juice and chipotles.  Mojo de ajo.

Better still?

Let shrimp in on it.

Camarones al Mojo de Ajo (Quick-Fried Shrimp with Sweet Toasty Garlic) from Rick Bayless

Notes: The shrimp were very good.  (Still not my favorite from Rick Bayless...stay tuned in June...wink wink.)  I need to find more uses for Mojo de Ajo.  I mean besides slurpping it up as soup like I wanted to do.  That was seriously good stuff, yall.  I want to try it on everything.

The dish was spicy with the sweet flavor of slow roasted garlic and sourness from the lime juice.  Would make again for sure.


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Camarones al Mojo de Ajo (Quick-Fried Shrimp with Sweet Toasty Garlic) 
from Mexico One Plate at a Time by Rick Bayless

2 heads garlic, cloves peeled
1 c extra virgin olive oil
salt
juice of 1 lime (large)
1-2 canned chipotle chilies in adobo, seeded and cut into thin strips
2 limes, cut into wedges
2 lbs medium sized shrimp, peeled
3 TBSP chopped cilantro or parsley

Chop the garlic by hand or with a food processor until the pieces are about 1/8" in size. You should have about 1/2 c chopped garlic. Scoop into a small saucepan. Add the oil and 1/2 tsp salt. Set over medium-low heat.  Stir occasionally and bring the mixture to barely a simmer.  Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the garlic is a soft pale golden color--about 30 minutes.  The slower the cooking, the sweeter the garlic.

Add lime juice and simmer until most of the juice has evaporated--about 5 minutes.  Stir in the chiles, then taste and add more salt if needed.  Keep the mojo on low heat so the garlic is warm when the shrimp are ready.

Set a large, heavy, nonstick skillet over medium high heat and spoon 1 1/2 TBSP of the oil (but no garlic) from the mojo.  Add half the shrimp and sprinkle with salt.  Stir gently and continuously until the shrimp are just cooked through, 3-4 minutes.  Stir in half the cilantro or parsley.  Remove to a serving platter.  Repeat with another 1 1/2 TBSP of the oil and the remaining shrimp.  When the shrimp are done, use a slotted spoon to scoop out the warm garlic and chiles.  Scatter over the shrimp.  If you are a garlic lover, you are about to have the treat of your life.

You may have as much as 1/3 c mojo left--use it to saute anything.

Make ahead: the mojo will keep refrigerated for a couple of weeks.  The oil will become solid, but will liquefy at room temperature.  Warm slowly before using.


This week's See Ya In the Gumbo can be found here.



Linking with I Heart Cooking Clubs.   This week's theme: POTLUCK!

Rick Bayless @IHCC button rounded

Cookbook Sundays @ Couscous and Consciousness
CookbookSundays

Carole's Chatter: Food on Friday Lemon & Lime theme

Also linking with these parties.  Join in!
Things that make you say: Photobucket  Hearth and Soul blog hop at Premeditated Leftovers
Nap-Time Creations
White Lights on Wednesdays
Gallery of Favorites
BWS tips button
Freedom Fridays slice of southern button


May 20, 2012

See Ya In the Gumbo # 32 (potluck)



See ya in the gumbo!

My great grandpa said this instead of "good-bye."  It means see ya out there in the mix.

Gumbo is a mix of various ingredients.  And no two people make it the same way.

To "make a gumbo" means much more than cooking.  When someone says "I'm making a gumbo," it means family and friends are invited.

I invite you to join this POTLUCK PARTY every Sunday night.

Bring whatever mix of ingredients you'd like.


Thank you for linking!


All featured entries will be Pinned here.

Last week's top-viewed links:

Mediterranean Pepper Salad
from Annies Home

Great colors and flavors in this salad.  A great dish for a summer cookout.   


Chicken Spinach Noodle Bake
from The Mouth of the South

Great dinner idea...from a doctor's office.
Chicken, Spinach, and Noodle Casserole 

Sweet Baked Salmon
from Hun...What's For Dinner?

Cindy says this has become a family favorite.  I like the idea of the sweet and spicy marinade.

April20003 



Ms. enPlace



* Please link your post, not your homepage.

* In your post, please link back to my site or add a button.

* Try to visit 2 or more participants

* Food-related posts only, please.




(Cannot add links: Registration/trial expired)

May 16, 2012

Donald Link's Cochon Lafayette (review)

After a morning of plans gone wacko, The Husband got the idea to take me to Cochon Lafayette for an early Mother's Day lunch.  Cochon is co-owned by my favorite Louisiana chef, Donald Link.  Link is the recipient of the 2007 James Beard Award for Best Chef South.  His cookbook (my favorite cookbook), Real Cajun: Rustic Home Cooking From Donald Link's Louisiana won the James Beard Best American Cookbook in 2010.  I've reviewed Real Cajun here.

Cochon Lafayette occupies a building that, from the road, appears almost industrial.  However, the backside of the building faces the Vermilion River--offering lazy, relaxing views from both the outdoor patios and inside the restaurant.  This made me think of all those old French Quarter houses with unassuming faces shuttered up tight against the street.  But most of those old buildings hide beautiful, lush courtyards in the back.  Their tall walls seem to strain to contain the fountains and ferns, banana plants, baskets of bougainvillea, and tropical sago palms.  The rear of Cochon happens to be the entrance.  May seem kinda kooky, but that's the way we do it in Louisiana.  Visitors know to knock at the back door.  The front door is rarely used.


With it's open kitchen, sleek modern lighting and stainless steel barstools, you might think that Donald Link has given up the rural Cajun lifestyle he learned from his grandparents.


But the country boy comes out in menu choices like smothered cabbage and turnips, rabbit and dumplings,  and featuring drum over the it's-been-trendy-for-so-long-it's-cliché redfish.  As someone who fishes drum south of New Orleans every fall, that choice is much appreciated.

Small touches like jars of pickled green tomatoes on the window sills

and homemade pepper vinegar on the tables made me feel at home.

The fact that we were seated overlooking the Vermilion River didn't hurt,  no.

Since Donald Link is most known for his porcine magic, we couldn't pass up the Boucherie Plate as an appetizer.  The three of us split this app and there was more than enough to go around.

The Boucherie plate features (top left moving clockwise)
* THE BEST most luxurious most melt-in-your-mouth hogshead cheese I have ever had.  You know how people say "it was so good, I wanted to cry?"  And you say, "yeah, whatever."  Well, don't you dare say that when I tell you it was so good I wanted to cry.
* In the center is a row of toast points.  Not a big deal.  Until you smear what's in that little dish onto them.  That little dish contains delicious slow cooked pork.  And it's sealed in lard.  Yeah.  Read that again.  This is a throwback to before refrigeration.  Meats were stored in crocks and sealed with a layer of lard to keep them fresh.  Another nod back to Link's roots that didn't go unnoticed with me.  And even though I was admittedly iffy about eating the lard, I did it.  And I don't regret it.  One bit.
* The plate also included condiments like pickled banana peppers and (my favorite) Creole Mustard.
* Smoked boudin can be seen at the bottom center.
* A cured pork bottom left.
* And a super-smokey homemade smoked sausage, which was fantastic.

The Boy ordered from the kid's menu, with usuals like mac and cheese.  But it also offered fried alligator and a sausage & pickle plate.  The Boy chose the sausage.  Considering how good the smoked sausage was on the boucherie plate, I thought that was a can't go wrong choice.

I was interested in a sausage and shrimp flatbread, but the flatbread wasn't ready for the day yet.  Our waitress sold me on the slow cooked brisket when she mentioned that it came with horseradish potato salad.    The brisket was unbelievably tender--both smoked and braised.  The sauce was velvety and bowl-lickin' good.  (No, I didn't.  That's what the cornbread was for.)

The Husband ordered the slow cooked pork shoulder, served with stewed cabbage and and turnips.  It was topped with pickled turnips and what Cochon refers to as cracklin, but what is more like a fried pork rind.  I did like the way this unorthodox cracklin looked on top of the pork though...like a little curly pig's tail.

In for a penny in for (several) pounds...we decided to go for dessert too.

The Boy had homemade vanilla ice cream because that's about as fancy as he likes his desserts.

The Husband had strawberry cobbler.

I chose red velvet cake with Creole cream cheese frosting.  One day I'll have to tell you about creole cream cheese--I only recently found out that my great-grandmother used to make and sell it around her neighborhood.  This slice of cake was so huge I laughed out loud when it was set in front of me.  The comical size didn't detract from its beauty (although you can't tell from the awful picture).  The texture was perfect and the frosting creamy, smooth, and tangy.

Lafayette, Louisiana recently won Southern Living's The South's Tastiest Town award.  As you can imagine, Lafayette is packed to the gills with restaurants.  Cochon Lafayette is perfectly housed in The South's Tastiest Town.